Silent Reflections, Desert Heat, Jericho, and Nazareth

This morning, we got up and left at 5:00 AM in silence - not simply because we were too weary to talk, but because we spent the morning in silent reflection on the way to Wadi Qelt. Wadi Qelt is the desert valley and stream leading from Jerusalem into the West Bank and to Jericho where it meets the Jordan river. We held the silence as we reached the desert, got off the bus, gathered to hear Psalm 23, and then walked to a place of our own choosing to see the sun rise. It was very moving for us all to be there, in silence - each having our own space on the mountain, yet together with each other. The desert is truly glorious in its beauty. The rolling hills, distant birds, green brush, gentle breeze, and ever-present morning light were all beautiful gifts. It was exactly what many needed at this early point in our pilgrimage. 

At 6:00 AM, we celebrated the Eucharist. It was extremely peaceful. Rev'd Joel G. Hafer from St. James Episcopal in Hendersonville, NC celebrated and gave the homily.

Moving onward, we made our way to Jericho and stopped for breakfast at the Alrawda Restaurant, an Arabic restaurant.
In order for us to avoid the hottest part of the day in this Judaean desert region, we left at 8:15 for Jericho's Tell. Its official name is Jericho es-Sultan and it is a gorgeous panoramic overlook on the Mount of Temptation near where the Biblical town once was. There is a large archaeological site on the way up the mountain. Our group took cable cars halfway up the mountain and most continued to hike up the Mount to see the Greek Orthodox Monastery of the Temptation. It was VEEEEERY hot.

The monastery was declared to be a holy site by St. Helena on her pilgrimage in 326. Like the Church of the Nativity being built over the grotto where Christ was born, this monastery was built over a stone marking the place where Jesus sat during his fast.

After we came down the mountain, we continued our drive to lunch in Nazareth at the Awtar restaurant. Then, we went to see Mary's Well, the only spring-fed fountain in the city. It is located inside the Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation and WOW, what a gorgeous church. 

It is small, but paintings and icons cover every single inch of the building. The smell of incense lingered hovered in the air and one can hear the bubbling sounds of Mary's Fountain at the side chapel of the church. It is the traditional site of the angel Gabriel's appearance to Mary, telling her that she would conceive Jesus. Many people come to the fountain to drink the water from the spring and to take it home in special bottles in hopes for its healing powers.

Next, we visited the Basilica of the Annunciation which was also very beautiful. Many mosaics of Mary with Jesus have been presented to this church from around the world and it is fascinating to see the variations, colors, and interpretations. 
(Check our Flickr page tomorrow (Wednesday) for many more photo uploads.

So..... Ramadan fast has broken and local folks are just starting to be out and about in the town's establishments, but for us, 8:00 PM hit and almost everyone was fading fast. It was such a terrific day - one absolutely packed with activities! Everyone seems to be having a great time learning so many interesting things about this area of the world, strengthening our lives in Christ's life, and spending time together in pilgrimage and discovery.
Here's a video collage of parts of our day! :-)
Goodnight from Nazareth! (photo below on my Canon powershot through a bit of desert haze, but it still came out pretty well!)

Tekoa, Church of the Nativity, Bethlehem Peace Center, and the Separation Wall

Finally - decently well-rested, our group had breakfast around 6:30 today and left at 7:30 for Tekoa, the home of the prophet Amos (one of the twelve minor prophets.) Tekoa is an Israeli settlement in the Palestinian area of Judea's mountains and so the drive was scenic and very beautiful.

It's history is fascinating. Along the way, we passed the Herodion.

The Israeli government argues that the settlement is fine, but most other governmental forces consider these cities illegal. Before this trip, I had an image of what I believed Israeli settlements looked like and this experience has blown through that. 

These are cities and some of them extremely large. There is also much ongoing construction in spite of the fact that it is illegal. 

It is extraordinarily difficult for people living in them to cross over into other territories, gain various permits, and even drive on certain roadways (with other roads off limits).

We walked up a sloping hill with gorgeous view of olive groves to a spot where John Peterson spoke to us about what an actual manger is. It is stone and not the wood we might assume. The group also discussed what a threshing floor was and we gained an image of living in Jesus' time.

Once at the top of the hill, we had a marvelous view of the rolling hills of Jordan and a wonderful breeze. 

John told us we were now going to all be archaeologists. He explained that on one of his teaching trips, there had been a cave discovery and that we were going to all go into the cave and afterwards we would all search for pottery shards. I hit the pottery shard jackpot and found several, some dating from the Byzantine era. After a bit of stepping through the brambles, we all climbed down into the cave which was covered with spider webs, but at least it was very large and cool. 

Once inside, he explained the various interpretations of an "inn" and how people would have divided sections of caves into places for people and animals. It was fascinating. Jesus was born in a cave, a grotto. 

Next, we visited the Holy Land Handicraft Cooperative Society. From their website, they:
"strive to alleviate local poverty, decrease unemployment, increase income levels, decrease emigration, and sustain the Palestinian handicraft industry for the benefit of traditional artisan producers by effectively marketing our members' products, making raw materials available at a low cost, and developing our capabilities technically and managerially."
It was a great stop and I bought my first cross to hang on a wall in my home. The hospitality was also amazing from the staff. It was a rare opportunity for us to purchase Palestinian-made crafts.

After this visit, we had lunch at Ruth's Field Restaurant in the town of Beit Sahour. 
Beit Sahour (also Bet and Beith) is a Palestinian town and mostly Greek Orthodox. It is East of Bethlehem and supposedly is close to the location where the Angels announced Jesus' birth to the shepherds. The Shepherd's Cave is a convent here, built by St. Helena. Ruth was a terrific hostess!

After lunch, we visited Manger Square and the famed Church of the Nativity, also in Palestinian Bethlehem on the West Bank. It is the oldest church in the history of Christianity and was built by Constantine in 326 AD. It is a basilica. It was interesting to hear the Muslim call to prayer as we entered the Church of the Nativity - because of our tour timing!

This church on the site where Jesus was born is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is magnificent. The site is built over a grotto which marks Christ's birthplace. It is heavily used by several different groups for worship and processions including the Coptic Church and the Armenian Orthodox Church. Attached to this church and separate only by a wall is the Latin Church, also beautiful. In that church's base, another portion of the cave series holds a spot where Jerome translated the Bible into Latin, giving us the Vulgate Bible. The rooms also include The Chapel of the Innocents.

It is difficult to put into coherent words what emotions flow from being in the land, and even in the very spots of Jesus' death at Golgotha and his birth at this site. Many of our pilgrims, including myself, were awestruck and everyone seemed moved by simply being here. I found myself crying as I descended the stairs into the grotto. I hadn't expected the rush of emotion that came over me.

Downstairs, after everyone had gathered, Fr. Rob read a Gospel passage of Jesus' birth and we sang "O Little town of Bethlehem".

Back in Manger Square, we spent time at the Bethlehem Peace Center. The center showcases the history of Bethlehem with plentiful artifacts and currently holds three exhibitions: The Nativity Story, Gifts of the Magi, and Peace and Justice. Nativity scenes from around the world were featured.

Our last stop in this area included the separation wall at Rachel's tomb. It is here where you can clearly observe the sad and relentless situations that wall-building creates. I sincerely hope that we as a human race can evolve beyond this.

Huge concrete walls surround and are covered with harsh graffiti the Jewish holy site of Rachel's tomb, an area of actual pilgrimage. 

The tomb has been a place of pilgrimage for Jews, especially women unable to give birth. A Jewish tradition says Rachel’s tears have special powers, inspiring those visiting her grave to ask her to cry and intercede with God. The huge barrier serves to block the main road and basically imprison Palestinian families and businesses. The area was once a bustling and lively place and it is now very quiet and empty. A section of the wall opens once a year. 

This evening, we heard from guest speaker Ophir Yarden who spoke on Contemporary Issues - an Israeli Perspective. 

The image above is the Palestinian Dove of Peace. 

Now to dinner.
Tomorrow, we leave at 5:00 AM and travel to Wadi Qelt where we will spend some time in the desert! We will spend three nights at the Sisters of Nazareth and I am not sure whether or not they will have internet. In case they do not, blog posts will return as soon as possible!

Namoura / Kullaj / Warbat - THE Most Fabulous Dessert!

WARNING: You may make this dessert and never stop making it. 
ADVICE: Send some to me, I'll help you do away with it!

Kullaj is a Middle Eastern dessert that is FABULOSITY itself! It is also called Namoura and Warbat and consists of phyllo dough stuffed with a cheese custard, a hint of sweetness, and crushed pistachios on top! It is VERY DELICIOUS. Now, this is not Kanafe, but is one of its cousins. I learned that it is particularly associated with the Ramadan holiday (which is today). Even Trip Advisor says it's the "best dessert in Jerusalem".
Here is a recipe
and....Here is another recipe

Western Wall, Dome of the Rock, and Israel Museum

Today began with breakfast at 5:30. This was because, in spite of the expected cold snap of 95 degrees, we wanted to hit the cooler part of the morning and to avoid traffic. With Ramadan tomorrow, there were rumors of troubles at some public sites, including the Dome of the Rock. 

We drove to the Western Wall and walked up the hill. After a brief wait in line, we were able to spend some private time at the wall. Many people connected with both if our groups (EDOLA and NC) had requested prayers. Everyone either brought pre-written prayers from congregations or family or they send some time writing on the bus ride.

Approaching the wall, men were separated from the women. I can vouch for the women's area being much quieter and less populated than the men's section. We spent time in quiet reflection and prayer. Many held books, some stuffed their prayer notes into crevices, and many wept. It is traditional for one to back away from the wall so as to show respect.
Next, we managed to get in a short line to go up to Elharam Esh Sharif (the Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque) on the Temple Mount. This is the third holiest site for Islam. It was built by Caliph Abd al-Malik, half a century after the death of Prophet Muhammad. The rock marks the site from where Muhammad's Mirraj or "Night Journey" into heaven and back is believed to have happened.

It is quite an honor to be there. Our guide, Iyad, told us about the five pillars of Islam and some other necessary details we needed to know while there. These included not touching each other (no husband/wife hand holding etc,) and no assuming any stance of prayer. While he was speaking, a group of people came through the Dome area security and were being escorted by many security officers. They were expected to cause trouble and were being watched closely to see that they were not going to do so. In fact, our group had to scurry to enter the Dome area because crowds at the Wall were becoming larger and more frictions were possible.

We enjoyed some time to roam around on our own and then met up for some explanations of panoramic views of Jerusalem that we were seeing.We could see Herod's temple, three towers, where the way of the cross was, the teardrop church of Dominus Flevit (halfway down the western slope of the Mount of Olives and where Jesus wept over the fate of Jerusalem), and the Russian Orthodox Church of Mary Magdalene, also on the Mount of Olives.

At 9:30 AM, we were back at St. George's Cathedral and attended the Sunday Eucharist service, after which we met with Archbishop Suheil Dawani in his house.

The service was in Arabic, the language of Arabic Palestinian Christians in the Holy Land and the sermon summary was given in English. 

After this talk, we walked down Salahaddin Street to the Alshoula Restaurant where we savored lamb and beef shawarma with salads. 

The Israel Museum and Shrine of the Book were our final stops today. Iyad showed us a scale model of the city of Jerusalem. 

Many took the time to visit the Dead Sea Scrolls area of the Museum.Inside, I was amazed to find two original jars from Masada, out of which came several major scrolls (including the Isaiah scroll and Temple scroll.) Another fascinating fact is that this national museum of Israel hosts the Aleppo Codex, from the 10th century and believed to be the oldest complete Bible in Hebrew! The museum itself is shaped like a jar or pot and its covering, standing beneath flowing water fountains representing the Essene community which had elaborate bathing rituals. 

Reflections from fellow pilgrims:

Elizabeth Randall - "When we arrived at the Temple Mount and looked down on the Holy City, I understood for the first time what it meant to pray for the peace of Jerusalem."

deSha Carter - "Our visit to the Western Wall was so powerful and meaningful to me. I felt the presence of the Holy Spirit as I prayed at the wall."

Here's a summary of some of our experiences here today in video form!
:-)

#EDOLA5G - First Day Exploring Jerusalem

Today, after morning prayers at St. George's Cathedral, our pilgrims watched a short program about the dwindling number of Christians in the Holy Land. Then, we heard a fascinating lecture by John Peterson on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre / The Church of the Resurrection, the True Cross, some archaeology, and more. John is the author of A Walk in Jerusalem: Stations of the Cross which we will be using on this journey.

Rock of Calvary

John was also our guide today and took great care to give us information about everything we were seeing and things along the way. 
Out we stepped into the blazing heat. We knew it was going to be hot, but it was even HOTTER than hot - 40 Celsius which is 104 Fahrenheit! Ouch! Still, everyone did very well and we saw an incredible amount today.
We walked along the Cardo Maximus to the Damascus Gate (below.)

The Cardo, or "heart" to the city, was the main street in Roman and Byzantine times. Originally paved by Hadrian in the second century, the Cardo runs along a North/South axis and features a gigantic Souq, or bazaar/market. Today, the road and Souq thrive in the heart of the Jewish Quarter in the Old City.

Once at the Constantinian entrance to the Church of the Resurrection, we explored the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. One of the highlights was the Ethiopian chapel with its old artwork and gracious hospitality. The Greeks, the Armenians, and the Catholics have secured large portions of this holy site and the Ethiopian Church is only a little less ancient.
After a while here, we went back into the Souq so that we could have a lunch at the Family Restaurant!

Now it was time to see the place where Christ was crucified. Even though the giant and beautiful monumental tomb is there in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, this isn't an actual tomb. Even though the church is extremely touristy, I personally could not hold back emotions after kneeling down underneath an upstairs altar under which is said to be the geographic location of the Crucifixion at Golgotha. Many others in our group were also visibly moved. 
Tricia Henderson of St. James Episcopal in Baton Rouge, LA says of another location underneath the Church of the Holy Sepulchre: "To see the pilgrim crosses scratched into the walls by people from many years ago, to glance at hundreds of candles lit by pilgrims today, to notice pilgrims praying everywhere...this was overwhelming. This is our source - the church eternal the church triumphant!"

Another inspiring and emotion moment for our group was watching people rub burial shrouds, crossed, or wedding veils over the anointing stone in preparation for different events.

Check out some photos on the pilgrimage Flickr site! Click HERE. 
This evening, we closed with an interesting lecture on Islam by guest speaker Mr. Firas Amad. Tomorrow, we leave at 6:15 AM to visit the Western Wall and the Dome of the Rock.

Awamat (Awwamaat) and Jelabies!

Sooooooo, check out these lovelies! Awamat (also Owamat, Awwameh, Awwamaat, and many other variations.) I saw these last night while walking from the Damascus Gate through a market / shop area and they reminded me of having seen them in India, Nepal, and Pakistan. They are honey-soaked sweet bread / dough balls and originally Syrian. They are SUPER TASTY and can be soaked in sugar syrup, honey, honey with cinnamon, or rose water (that sounds AMAZING!) I must try some of these tomorrow (or every day...)

I have actually had them before in India and Pakistan, but don't recall the specific version of the name. They usually came after dinner in someone's home or were all over the city at street vendors' carts. I've always had the more bread-like ones, but I see there are crispier versions and more doughy fried doughnut-like versions. There is even an Ashkenazic dumpling version. Here in Jerusalem, they are also served specifically during Ramadan when a variety of food including savory sweets are eaten after the fast is broken.
RECIPE (there are a ton of variations!) - this one is like the Indian versions I have had!
YouTube of Awamat
Let me just stop right here and say - "SOMEBODY MAKE ME SOME!"
Now, let's turn out gaze to the colorful jelabies below...

I have also had jelabies before and they were honey-filled. I enjoyed them after chapels at the Christian Hospital Mungeli when I was there in 2014 and 2015. SO GOOD!

I was surprised to find them here, but happily so! The flour batter is fermented and later poured into spirals in hot oil and fried. I've never had any but the honey-filled ones, but I know there are variations!

RECIPE

YouTube of how to make jelabies

Advice: Go forth and make BOTH of these delicious sweets and save some for me!

Arrival Day in Jerusalem!

This is my first blog post from our Diocesan pilgrimage to the Holy Land. I will embed two videos tomorrow evening!

We left last night, delayed quite a long time, but happy to finally take off! Everyone was very tired, but in great spirits as we ate dinner en route. Some drifted off to sleep and some watched movies. After landing in Ben Gurion Airport in Tel Aviv, we located our bags and went outside to meet Iyad Qumri, our guide. 

What a joyful spirit! Omar, our driver is a great friend of Iyad's and laughed right along with us at the many pleasantries and humorous announcements from Iyad. Below is a short video which will take you along with our arrival.
video
Our group arrived at St. George's Cathedral Guest House, checked in, and ate a delicious dinner of savory greens, olives, veggies, and minced lamb/beef meat balls in a mushroom-y cream sauce. 

Next, we joined our new friends from the Diocese of Western North Carolina and St. James Episcopal Church in Hendersonville for individual introductions and an opening meeting. Everyone is very excited to be here and we shared with each other what we left behind and one things we hope to take with us in this whole experience when we return. It is so nice to be with one another and hear the different aspects of being on the same page. It's going to be a fantastic trip. And now...to sleep! Zzzzz...

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